Description
This trip allows for a return not to James Bay, but Hudson Bay itself. The destination is Fort Severn, an Oji-Cree community in the Severn River estuary a few miles from the ocean. Alternatively, from the end of the all-season roads a passenger train can be taken to Churchill, MB further north on Hudson Bay, at about 59 degrees lattitude. Both Churchill and Fort Severn are just above the 'tree line', where winds have no barrier, and wind chill can read -100C (-150F).
The 1600km/1000-mile-long all-season route is paved for the first half, then gravel for 250km. The rest consists of winter roads, constructed each winter and maintained until spring thaw. The first 166km leads to Shamattawa, and is known to be narrow, winding and steep. Finally, a wider 317km winter road built by a different contractor connects Shamattawa to Fort Severn, at 56 degrees lattitude. The road to Shamattawa is open about 6 weeks a year starting in mid-January or February , meanwhile the road to Fort Severn is open just a few weeks, starting in late February or early March. Driving at night on paved sections is fine, but should be minimized if possible on the winter roads. This is some serious winter driving.
The trip starts in Winnipeg, Manitoba's capital city of about 700,000 residents. Winnipeg is known as Canada's gateway to the west, and features a famous ballet house and the country's primary mint, among other attractions. For several hours, the journey northward skirts the massive Lake Winnipeg , a Great Lake in its own right. Eventually the town of Thompson is reached, home to most car manufacturer's extreme winter proving grounds. Upcoming and secret car models are often seen here, but the townsfolk are quite tight-lipped. The route however, continues further, on gravel road. After a few hours, the all-season road ends and a choice is available for reaching Hudson Bay: either 500km (10 to 14 hours) east on winter roads to Fort Severn, ON, or north for 300km via 9-hour overnight passenger train to Churchill, MB. Churchill is known as the polar bear capital of the world, and was one of the sites where the 2004 movie The Snow Walker was shot. Fort Severn is an Ojibway community about which the author is almost totally ignorant.
Not much is known about what services are available in Fort Severn. There is an inn and a gas station, and a church with fabulous northern lights.
Churchill, being more a sizeable town of about 800, will have charter planes and/or helicopters and outfitters. From mid-October to mid-November, tourists can watch polar bears in their natural habitat - from the safety of converted buses. In summer, boat trips to see and swim with beluga (white) whales can be made. Churchill is also home to the Prince of Wales Fort National Historic Site.
Getting There
The route is most easily accessed via the end of I-29, north of Minneapolis. An hour north of the border is the city of Winnipeg. Alternatively, 'The Peg' can be reached from points further east via the Trans-Canada Highway.
Alternatives / Spurs
Rather than going on winter ice roads, a passenger train can be taken to Churchill, MB. Churchill is the largest town on Hudson Bay, with a population of almost 10,000.
Sights / Attractions
Winnipeg, Royal Mint, the Prairies, Lake WInnipeg, Thompson, Hudson Bay.
Claims to Fame
This is the only way to drive to Hudson Bay outside of James Bay.
Estimates
It is 3 days drive to Winnipeg from NYC via Interstates or the Trans-Canada Highway. From Winnipeg, it's 2 to 3 days to Fort Severn by car or 1 to 2 days and then a night to Churchill by car and train. So, allow 10 days minimum round trip.
The trip can be done year round to Churchill, winter only to Fort Severn (a few weeks in March, usually). The year-round train to Churchill is boarded in Gillam Mon/Wed/Fri nights, the return train from Churchill leaves Tues/Thurs/Sat evenings. Unbelievably, the train is only C$26 each way for super economy. Rooms start at C$176.
Links
Train to Churchill (The Hudson Bay)
Prince of Wales Fort